From Agricultural waste to textiles and from textiles to soil amendments
As the world prepares for Global Day of Zero Waste 2025, the spotlight is on sustainable textiles and the circular economy. The textile and agricultural industries are increasingly shifting towards sustainability. One of the most promising developments in this transition is using agricultural waste to produce fibers for eco-friendly textiles. Some examples are banana and pineapple leaves, bamboo stacks, and coconut coir. Equally important is the role of discarded textiles as soil-enhancing materials, closing the loop in a circular economy.
As concerns over environmental pollution and resource depletion grow, innovative approaches like fiber recovery from waste are gaining traction. Textile waste, both pre-and post-consumer, remains one of the most significant contributors to landfill accumulation. Approximately 80–85% of discarded clothing ends up in landfills annually, with only 15–20% being recycled. This wastes valuable raw materials and increases energy consumption and environmental degradation. To address this, researchers and manufacturers focus on natural fiber extraction, reuse, and blending methods that make textile production more sustainable.
From Agricultural Waste to Textiles: A New Lifeline for Farmers and Industry
Banana Fiber: A Growing Industry in Uganda
Uganda, the world's second-largest banana producer after India, cultivates approximately 10 million metric tons annually. More than 75% of Uganda's population relies on bananas as a staple food, consuming nearly one kilogram per person daily. However, this widespread production generates significant waste, particularly from banana stems traditionally discarded after harvest.
Recognizing the economic and environmental potential of this waste, Ugandan innovators have begun repurposing banana stems into valuable textile fibers. Companies like TEXFAD are pioneering banana fiber extraction, working with smallholder farmers to create sustainable textile products. Originally, fiber extraction was a labor-intensive manual process, but new mechanical extractors have made it more efficient and commercially viable. Today, banana fiber is used in carpets, biodegradable hair extensions, cotton-like textiles for clothing, and even vegan leather for fashion accessories.
Beyond textiles, banana waste is also being transformed into charcoal briquettes, providing a clean-burning energy source. This initiative reduces environmental pollution and creates jobs, particularly for Uganda's youth, who face one of the highest unemployment rates in Africa. Through vocational training programs, TEXFAD has already trained over 400 young artisans and continues to expand employment opportunities in the banana fiber industry.
Pineapple Leaf Fiber (PALF): A Sustainable Textile Alternative
Pineapple leaf fiber (PALF) is another promising material in the sustainable textile movement. Known for its soft texture, breathability, and microbial resistance, PALF is increasingly being blended with other natural fibers to enhance textile durability and performance. However, current usage of pineapple leaf fiber is minimal, with only about 10–20% of the dry matter utilized for clothing production. The remaining biomass often goes to waste.
Bangladesh's garment industry, one of the largest global textile producers, is exploring ways to integrate PALF with recycled waste fiber (RWF) from textile manufacturing. The initiative, inspired by the country's "Jhuta" system (a term for garment industry fabric scraps), focuses on mechanically recycling hard waste like yarn and fabric cuttings to produce blended yarns. Manufacturers combine agricultural fibers like PALF with recycled textile waste to create high-quality yarn while reducing raw material dependency. This approach minimizes textile landfill waste and aligns with zero-waste management principles, converting discarded materials into valuable products.
Coconut Coir and Microbial Cellulose: Sustainable Innovations in Textiles
Derived from the husks of the coconut tree (Cocos nucifera), coconut coir is a tough, durable fiber widely used in ropes, mats, and brushes. However, research suggests that refining coir fibers further could open new possibilities for applications in apparel and home textiles, making use of a renewable and abundant resource.
In addition to coir, another innovative textile solution derived from coconut waste has emerged: microbial cellulose. During the Planet Textiles event in Canada, Australian technology company Nanollose introduced Nullarbor, a microbial cellulose fabric produced through the natural fermentation of coconut byproducts. Unlike traditional plant-based fibers, this process does not require the felling of trees, arable land, irrigation, pesticides, or other resource-intensive inputs, making it a truly sustainable alternative.
Closing the Loop: Textiles as Sustainable Soil Additives
Beyond fiber extraction, discarded textiles, especially those made from natural plant-based materials, can play a crucial role in soil health. This is where the system's circularity truly shines. As of 2023, natural fibers accounted for approximately 20% of global textile fiber production, with the remaining 80% comprising synthetic fibers derived from fossil fuels.
Biodegradable Water-Absorbing Geocomposites (BioWAGs)
One of the most promising uses of textile waste in agriculture is the development of biodegradable water-absorbing geocomposites (BioWAGs). These are spatial mats made from natural fiber textile waste, such as wool, jute, and linen, combined with a superabsorbent polymer. BioWAGs are incorporated into the soil, where they provide plants with continuous access to water while slowly decomposing and enriching the soil with nutrients.
A study conducted over three growing seasons found that BioWAGs not only improved soil structure but also reduced the need for synthetic fertilizers by releasing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium as they degraded. The research highlighted that needle-punched nonwovens decomposed within six months, while stitched nonwovens remained intact for up to three years, offering a long-term solution for soil conditioning.
Direct Mulching with Textile Waste
Natural fiber textiles such as jute and wool can be repurposed as mulch to protect the soil and improve its quality. These biodegradable fabrics prevent erosion, suppress weeds, retain soil moisture, and enrich the soil as they decompose. Unlike synthetic mulch films, which contribute to microplastic pollution, biodegradable textile mulches offer a sustainable alternative that naturally breaks down without harming the environment.
Nutrient Release and Soil Fertility
Shredded textile waste can be directly incorporated into soil to improve aeration and water retention. As biodegradable textiles break down, they release valuable nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, essential elements for crop production. The main protein in wool fibers is keratin. As keratin decomposes, studies have shown that its biodegradation enriches the soil by releasing essential nutrients such as nitrogen (N), sulfur (S), potassium (K), phosphorus (P), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and zinc (Zn). This process enhances plant growth and soil health, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers.
Alternative to Synthetic Geotextiles
Traditionally, geotextiles used in agriculture and landscaping are made from petroleum-based polymers, which contribute to microplastic pollution. By replacing them with natural fiber-based alternatives, such as banana or flax textiles, we can reduce dependency on synthetic materials and improve soil sustainability.
The road ahead
As global demand for sustainable fashion and responsible waste management grows, integrating agricultural residues into textile production offers a viable path forward. Likewise, repurposing textile waste into soil-enhancing materials can help close the loop, ensuring that sustainability efforts extend beyond production and consumption.
References
- Marczak, D., Lejcuś, K., Grzybowska-Pietras, J., Biniaś, W., & Tamma, A. (2024). Circular economy in action: Transforming textile waste into sustainable soil additives-Physicochemical properties and biodegradability. Journal of Cleaner Production, 480, 144093.
- Baseri, S. (2024). Environmentally sound recycling of agricultural waste: A sustainable approach to develop bio-functional art textile. Journal of Environmental Management, 366, 121758.
- Jalil, M. A., Repon, M. R., Jurkonienė, S., Haji, A., Hussain, S. Z., & Shukhratov, S. (2024). Valorization of pineapple leaves: Effective conversion of agro waste to textile materials. Energy Science & Engineering, 12(6), 2426-2434.
- https://www.weforum.org/stories/2023/05/how-banana-waste-is-transforming-uganda-s-circular-economy/
- Pictures from TEXFAD